{"id":327900,"date":"2019-03-04T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2019-03-03T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/nezarazene\/beseda-dariusz-kortko-marcin-pietraszewski-kukuczka\/"},"modified":"2019-03-04T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2019-03-03T23:00:00","slug":"beseda-dariusz-kortko-marcin-pietraszewski-kukuczka","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/rozhovor\/beseda-dariusz-kortko-marcin-pietraszewski-kukuczka\/","title":{"rendered":"Beseda: Dariusz Kortko, Marcin Pietraszewski &#8211; Kukuczka"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\"><strong>Co bylo hlavn&iacute;m impulzem k&nbsp;tomu, aby tato kr&aacute;sn&aacute; kniha vznikla?<br \/><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\">V&nbsp;roce 2014 bylo otev\u0159eno nov&eacute; Slezsk&eacute; muzeum v&nbsp;Katowic&iacute;ch, kde byly prezentov&aacute;ny komplikovan&eacute; d\u011bjiny cel&eacute;ho Slezska. Historie muzea kon\u010d&iacute; v&nbsp;roce 1989 a kon\u010d&iacute; fotkou Jerzyho <a title=\"Kukuczka\" href=\"https:\/\/www.knihcentrum.cz\/kukuczka\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><span style=\"color: #1b3f75;\"><strong>Kukuczky<\/strong><\/span><\/a>. P\u0159i&scaron;lo n&aacute;m to zvl&aacute;&scaron;tn&iacute;, tak jsme se o to za\u010dali zaj&iacute;mat a p&aacute;trat d&aacute;l. Zjistili jsme, \u017ee nem&aacute; \u017e&aacute;dnou biografii, co\u017e byla voda na n&aacute;&scaron; ml&yacute;n, tak jsme se do toho pustili.<\/p>\n<p><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\"><strong>Jak dlouho trvalo d&aacute;t knihu dohromady a jak&eacute; zdroje jste vyu\u017e&iacute;vali?<br \/><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\">Na knize jsme pracovali zhruba rok. Jeliko\u017e jsme o tomto prost\u0159ed&iacute; mnoho nev\u011bd\u011bli, tak jsme si toho museli hodn\u011b nastudovat. P\u0159e\u010detli jsme asi 60 knih, vid\u011bli jsme spoustu film\u016f a \u010detli spoustu \u010dl&aacute;nk\u016f. \u017dena pana Kukuczky n&aacute;m dovolila prohledat jeho osobn&iacute; arch&iacute;v. Samotn&eacute; psan&iacute; trvalo asi 3 m\u011bs&iacute;ce. Jeliko\u017e jsme to psali ve dvou lidech, tak jsme si kapitoly rozd\u011blili a v&scaron;e pak vz&aacute;jemn\u011b kontrolovali a konzultovali.<\/p>\n<p><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\"><strong>Jak to v&nbsp;Polsku vypadalo s&nbsp;podporou horolezectv&iacute; v&nbsp;dob\u011b Jerzyho Kukuczky?<br \/><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\">80. l&eacute;ta v&nbsp;Polsku byla opravdu stra&scaron;nou dobou, v&nbsp;\u010ceskoslovensku tomu tak asi nebylo, ale v&nbsp;Polsku v&nbsp;obchodech nebylo skoro nic. Sehnat n\u011bjak&eacute; vybaven&iacute; bylo stra&scaron;n\u011b n&aacute;ro\u010dn&eacute; a oni toho vybaven&iacute; pot\u0159ebovali spoustu. D&aacute;le samoz\u0159ejm\u011b pot\u0159ebovali i pen&iacute;ze. Jedn&iacute;m zdrojem pen\u011bz pro n\u011b bylo nat&iacute;r&aacute;n&iacute; kom&iacute;n\u016f, \u010d&iacute;m\u017e z&iacute;skali n\u011bjak&eacute; pen&iacute;ze, kter&eacute; pak pou\u017eili.<\/p>\n<p><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\"><strong>Kdy\u017e v&nbsp;Polsku panovaly takov&eacute; podm&iacute;nky, nezva\u017eoval n\u011bkdy emigraci?<br \/><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\">Kukuczka samoz\u0159ejm\u011b mohl z\u016fstat na z&aacute;pad\u011b, n\u011bkolik horolezc\u016f z\u016fstalo ve Francii nebo ve &Scaron;v&yacute;carsku. Nikdo z&nbsp;p\u0159&aacute;tel Kukuczky ale necht\u011bl z\u016fstat na z&aacute;pad\u011b. V&nbsp;Polsku byl n\u011bk&yacute;m, ale v&nbsp;zahrani\u010d&iacute; by mohl b&yacute;t nik&yacute;m.<\/p>\n<p><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\"><strong>V&nbsp;80. letech vrcholil souboj mezi Kukuczkou a Messnerem. Jak to pro\u017e&iacute;val?<br \/><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\">Z&aacute;vod mezi Messnerem a Kukuczkou je opravdu kontroverzn&iacute;. Oba \u0159&iacute;kali, \u017ee to \u017e&aacute;dn&yacute; z&aacute;vod nebyl, ale mysl&iacute;m, \u017ee oba cht\u011bli b&yacute;t prvn&iacute;. M&eacute;dia t&iacute;m z&aacute;vodem \u017eila. Messner nakonec vylezl na v&scaron;echny ty osmitis&iacute;covky prvn&iacute;. Rozpoutal se kolem toho &scaron;&iacute;len&yacute; z&aacute;vod, kdo prvn&iacute; zdol&aacute; v&scaron;echny ty osmitis&iacute;cov&eacute; hory. Ale i tento z&aacute;vod m\u011bl ur\u010ditou cenu, proto\u017ee skoro na ka\u017ed&eacute; v&yacute;prav\u011b Jerzyho um&iacute;ral n\u011bkdo z&nbsp;jeho partner\u016f a horolezci se za\u010dali b&aacute;t s&nbsp;n&iacute;m jezdit. Riskoval nejen sv\u016fj \u017eivot, ale tak&eacute; \u017eivot sv&yacute;ch koleg\u016f. A oni nev\u011bd\u011bli, jak se v&nbsp;t&eacute;to situaci zachovat. Jednou Jerzy visel na st\u011bn\u011b hory a zjistil, \u017ee jeden z&nbsp;jeho koleg\u016f se z\u0159&iacute;til do propasti a um\u0159el. V&nbsp;t&eacute;to situaci bylo zvykem, \u017ee v\u016fdce v&yacute;pravy rozhodl o tom, \u017ee se v&scaron;ichni vracej&iacute;. V&nbsp;ten moment se modlil, aby to v\u016fdce v&yacute;pravy neud\u011blal a on mohl tu horu vyl&eacute;zt. Jerzy byl jedn&iacute;m z&nbsp;lid&iacute;, kte\u0159&iacute; se zap\u0159&iacute;\u010dinili o to, \u017ee za\u010dal b&yacute;t d\u016fle\u017eit&yacute; v&yacute;kon a u\u017e nebyl d\u016fle\u017eit&yacute; jen ten pocit ze zdol&aacute;n&iacute; hory. Tohle z\u016fstalo dodnes, kdy je st&aacute;le d\u016fle\u017eit&yacute; hlavn\u011b ten v&yacute;kon.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 26pt; color: #1b3f75;\"><strong>O autorech<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\"><strong>Dariusz Kortko a Marcin Pietraszewski<\/strong> jsou novin&aacute;\u0159i den&iacute;ku Gazeta Wyborcza. Krom\u011b biografie Jerzyho Kukuczky, nejslavn\u011bj&scaron;&iacute;ho polsk&eacute;ho horolezce, jsou spoluautory knihy popisuj&iacute;c&iacute; polsk&yacute; let do vesm&iacute;ru z roku 1978 a jednotliv\u011b autory \u010di editory \u017eivotopis\u016f dal&scaron;&iacute;ch v&yacute;znamn&yacute;ch polsk&yacute;ch osobnost&iacute;.<\/p>\n<p><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\">Besedu modervala: Sandra Proch&aacute;zkov&aacute;&nbsp;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/XEkcDHT3Olg\" width=\"500\" height=\"350\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Za\u010d\u00e1tkem \u00fanora p\u0159edstavili na besed\u011b v Dom\u011b knihy biografii Kukuczka jej\u00ed auto\u0159i &#8211; Dariusz Kortko a Marcin Pietraszewski.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":327901,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_EventAllDay":false,"_EventTimezone":"","_EventStartDate":"","_EventEndDate":"","_EventStartDateUTC":"","_EventEndDateUTC":"","_EventShowMap":false,"_EventShowMapLink":false,"_EventURL":"","_EventCost":"","_EventCostDescription":"","_EventCurrencySymbol":"","_EventCurrencyCode":"","_EventCurrencyPosition":"","_EventDateTimeSeparator":"","_EventTimeRangeSeparator":"","_EventOrganizerID":[],"_EventVenueID":[],"_OrganizerEmail":"","_OrganizerPhone":"","_OrganizerWebsite":"","_VenueAddress":"","_VenueCity":"","_VenueCountry":"","_VenueProvince":"","_VenueState":"","_VenueZip":"","_VenuePhone":"","_VenueURL":"","_VenueStateProvince":"","_VenueLat":"","_VenueLng":"","_VenueShowMap":false,"_VenueShowMapLink":false,"twitterCardType":"","cardImageID":0,"cardImage":"","cardTitle":"","cardDesc":"","cardImageAlt":"","cardPlayer":"","cardPlayerWidth":0,"cardPlayerHeight":0,"cardPlayerStream":"","cardPlayerCodec":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[21848],"class_list":["post-327900","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-rozhovor","tag-revue"],"acf":{"related_products":null},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/327900","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=327900"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/327900\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/327901"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=327900"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=327900"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=327900"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}