{"id":327246,"date":"2016-11-07T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2016-11-06T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/nezarazene\/nejslavnejsi-horolezec-soucasnosti-lici-v-knize-pad-nebes-dobyti-matterhornu\/"},"modified":"2016-11-07T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2016-11-06T23:00:00","slug":"nejslavnejsi-horolezec-soucasnosti-lici-v-knize-pad-nebes-dobyti-matterhornu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/recenze\/nejslavnejsi-horolezec-soucasnosti-lici-v-knize-pad-nebes-dobyti-matterhornu\/","title":{"rendered":"Nejslavn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed horolezec sou\u010dasnosti l\u00ed\u010d\u00ed v knize P\u00e1d nebes dobyt\u00ed Matterhornu"},"content":{"rendered":"<div style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a title=\"P&aacute;d Nebes\" href=\"https:\/\/www.knihcentrum.cz\/addtocart\/346228\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"margin-right: 10px; margin-left: 10px; float: right;\" src=\"\/content\/images\/uploaded\/pad nebes koupit.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"129\" height=\"228\" title=\"\"><\/a><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;\">Autor knihy <a href=\"\/Kniha\/pad-nebes\"><span style=\"color: #003d7c;\"><strong>P&aacute;d Nebes<\/strong> <\/span><\/a><a href=\"\/autor\/reinhold-messner-1\">Reinhold Messner<\/a><\/span>&nbsp;<span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;\">se pono\u0159il hluboko do historie, aby prozkoumal ka\u017ed&eacute; z&aacute;kout&iacute; tolik n&aacute;ro\u010dn&eacute; a nevyzpytateln&eacute; hory, kter&aacute; si vzala ji\u017e mnoho \u017eivot\u016f&hellip;<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;\">L&aacute;k&aacute; svou nep\u0159&iacute;stupnost&iacute;, ze v&scaron;ech stran, jakoby hrozila svou nebezpe\u010dnost&iacute;, av&scaron;ak z&aacute;rove\u0148 v&aacute;bila jej&iacute;m zdol&aacute;n&iacute;m. Kniha&nbsp;<span style=\"color: #003d7c;\"><strong>P&aacute;d nebes<\/strong><\/span> vypr&aacute;v&iacute; o lidech, zejm&eacute;na pak o Jean-Antoine Carrelovi a Edwardu Whymperovi, kte\u0159&iacute; se do Matterhornu bezprost\u0159edn\u011b zamilovali. Psal se rok 1857, kdy se italsk&yacute; horolezec a zku&scaron;en&yacute; lovec pokusil jako prvn&iacute; o v&yacute;stup na Matterhorn. Ten mu nedal sp&aacute;t je&scaron;t\u011b po p\u011bknou \u0159&aacute;dku let, dokud se mu nepoda\u0159ilo ji zdolat. Byl v&scaron;ak prvn&iacute;, kdo se na vrchol dostal?<\/p>\n<p><\/span><\/div>\n<div style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;\"><a href=\"\/autor\/reinhold-messner-1\"><span style=\"color: #003d7c;\"><strong>Reinhold Messner<\/strong><\/span><\/a>, zn&aacute;m&yacute; horolezec napsal knihu, ve kter&eacute; do detail\u016f popisuje p\u0159&iacute;b\u011bh o velk&eacute;m p\u0159&aacute;telstv&iacute;, sout\u011b\u017eivosti, o hou\u017eevnatosti i o velk&eacute; trag&eacute;dii z n\u011bkolika mo\u017en&yacute;ch &uacute;hl\u016f. S odstupem \u010dasu hodnot&iacute;, co se tehdy na Matterhornu stalo, a kdo nesl jak&yacute; pod&iacute;l viny na celkov&eacute; trag&eacute;dii. I kdy\u017e dnes u\u017e nikdo ze z&uacute;\u010dastn\u011bn&yacute;ch ne\u017eije, dochovaly se z&aacute;pisky z den&iacute;k\u016f, kter&eacute; popisuj&iacute; cestu na vrchol a zp&aacute;tky, vztahy mezi jednotliv&yacute;mi horolezci a nosi\u010di i mnoh&aacute; podez\u0159en&iacute;, kdo za velkou trag&eacute;dii vlastn\u011b mohl. Vy&scaron;et\u0159ov&aacute;n&iacute; v&scaron;ak konkr&eacute;tn&iacute;ho vin&iacute;ka nep\u0159ineslo, av&scaron;ak p\u0159it&iacute;\u017eilo sv\u011bdom&iacute; hned n\u011bkolika osob&aacute;m. <br \/><\/span><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;\">&bdquo;Katastrofa na Matterhornu se rozk\u0159ikla dokonce u\u017e i v Lond&yacute;n\u011b. D\u011bti sly&scaron;&iacute; p\u0159&iacute;b\u011bh u sn&iacute;dan\u011b, d&aacute;my u holi\u010de, p&aacute;nov&eacute; v klubu. Evropou se &scaron;&iacute;\u0159&iacute; vlna zd\u011b&scaron;en&iacute;. Matterhorn nenech&aacute;v&aacute; nikoho chladn&yacute;m a poprv&eacute; se za\u010dnou anga\u017eovat i nehorolezci. Nad Pro a Proti podobn&yacute;ch prvov&yacute;stup\u016f se \u017eiv\u011b diskutuje v hostinc&iacute;ch a v klubech &ndash; v&scaron;ude je plno emoc&iacute;, odsuzov&aacute;n&iacute; a kroucen&iacute; hlavou. P\u0159edev&scaron;&iacute;m anglick&eacute; listy vzn&aacute;&scaron;ej&iacute; \u017ealoby. Italsk&eacute; noviny oproti tomu p&iacute;&scaron;&iacute; o balvanu, kter&yacute; ne&scaron;\u0165astn&iacute;ky strhnul do propasti, o trhlin\u011b, o hr\u016fzostra&scaron;n&eacute; rokli, kter&aacute; je nakonec pohltila. Jednomu n\u011bmeckojazy\u010dn&eacute;mu krasopisci se poda\u0159ilo zapl&eacute;st do \u010dl&aacute;nku v novin&aacute;ch obvin\u011bn&iacute;, \u017ee Whymper lano mezi Douglasem a Taugwalderem p\u0159etnul, aby zachr&aacute;nil sv\u016fj vlastn&iacute; \u017eivot. Tato zpr&aacute;va se nejprve &scaron;&iacute;\u0159&iacute; od redakce k redakci, pot&eacute; mezi lidmi &scaron;eptandou&hellip;&ldquo; <br \/><\/span><br \/><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;\">Velmi siln&yacute; p\u0159&iacute;b\u011bh, obrovsk&eacute; odhodl&aacute;n&iacute; a sout\u011b\u017eivost p\u0159ivedla nem&aacute;lo horolezc\u016f na vrchol tolik nebezpe\u010dn&eacute; hory, kterou Matterhorn bezesporu je. V knize o\u010dek&aacute;vejte stejn\u011b&nbsp;nap&iacute;nav&eacute; dobrodru\u017estv&iacute; a popis d\u011bje, kter&yacute; se kdysi skute\u010dn\u011b stal. Nikdo jin&yacute;, ne\u017e spisovatel <span style=\"color: #003d7c;\"><strong>R<\/strong><strong>einhold Messner<\/strong><\/span> nemohl l&eacute;pe uchopit skute\u010dnosti a emoce, kter&eacute; tehdy samotn&iacute; horolezci pro\u017eili. Ostatn\u011b jeho lezeck&eacute; zku&scaron;enosti mluv&iacute; samy za sebe. Messner je prvn&iacute;m horolezcem, kter&yacute; zdolal v&scaron;ech 14 osmitis&iacute;covek, jako prvn&iacute; zdolal Mount Everest bez pou\u017eit&iacute; kysl&iacute;kov&eacute;ho p\u0159&iacute;stroje a jako prvn&iacute; provedl na Mount Everest kompletn&iacute; s&oacute;lov&yacute; v&yacute;stup bez lan. Mus&iacute;me tedy uznat, \u017ee i<span style=\"color: #003d7c;\"><strong> P&aacute;d nebes<\/strong><\/span> napsal l&eacute;pe ne\u017e na jedni\u010dku.<\/p>\n<p>Autor: Jana Klouparov&aacute;<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Autor knihy P\u00e1d Nebes Reinhold Messner se pono\u0159il hluboko do historie, aby prozkoumal ka\u017ed\u00e9 z\u00e1kout\u00ed tolik n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9 a nevyzpytateln\u00e9 hory, kter\u00e1 si vzala ji\u017e mnoho \u017eivot\u016f\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":327247,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_EventAllDay":false,"_EventTimezone":"","_EventStartDate":"","_EventEndDate":"","_EventStartDateUTC":"","_EventEndDateUTC":"","_EventShowMap":false,"_EventShowMapLink":false,"_EventURL":"","_EventCost":"","_EventCostDescription":"","_EventCurrencySymbol":"","_EventCurrencyCode":"","_EventCurrencyPosition":"","_EventDateTimeSeparator":"","_EventTimeRangeSeparator":"","_EventOrganizerID":[],"_EventVenueID":[],"_OrganizerEmail":"","_OrganizerPhone":"","_OrganizerWebsite":"","_VenueAddress":"","_VenueCity":"","_VenueCountry":"","_VenueProvince":"","_VenueState":"","_VenueZip":"","_VenuePhone":"","_VenueURL":"","_VenueStateProvince":"","_VenueLat":"","_VenueLng":"","_VenueShowMap":false,"_VenueShowMapLink":false,"twitterCardType":"","cardImageID":0,"cardImage":"","cardTitle":"","cardDesc":"","cardImageAlt":"","cardPlayer":"","cardPlayerWidth":0,"cardPlayerHeight":0,"cardPlayerStream":"","cardPlayerCodec":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[21848],"class_list":["post-327246","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-recenze","tag-revue"],"acf":{"related_products":null},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/327246","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=327246"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/327246\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/327247"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=327246"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=327246"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxor.cz\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=327246"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}